Pirates, Exotic Beaches and Adventure... It's not a Movie, It's Culebra Island!

It was Father’s Day Weekend 2009. By that time the Off Road Xpeperience Scout Team had already camped out together a few times. A friend of ours had made it a tradition to camp out at Flamenco Beach in the island of Culebra on Father’s Day weekend for a few years now. During our last camp out together at another site he extended an invitation for us to join him on his next visit to the island. In the past he had done it alone. I guess that until now he had not found a group of friends that shared his taste for adventure.


Camping in Culebra requires a little bit more of planning than it would to camp elsewhere on the main island of Puerto Rico. But before I give you some tips about camping in Culebra let me share some facts about this beautiful Island Town.

A FEW HISTORICAL FACTS



Roberto Cofresí (1791 - 1825).
Puertorrican Pirate
(Cabo Rojo Monument)

 Culebra Island’s original name was “Isla Pasaje” (Passage Island). This name may have been given due to the fact that this island served as a refuge for pirates for over three centuries. In order to protect the island and stop the protection it gave to pirates, in 1875 the first governor of the island was announced, a Black Englishman named Stevens, who was assassinated later that same year. A BLACK Governor? On a Prirate Infested Island? In the 1800s? Murderded? How did that happen?

Culebra was later named “San Idelfonso’s Island” in the1880s after San Idelfonso de La Culebra, Bishop of Toledo. So you’ll see, although “Culebra” literally means “snake”, the current name of the island may have nothing to do with snakes at all. I did some research and I found out that the name Culebra may have been given due to the wavy appearance the island gives as you sail toward it. Although the actual contour of the island as seen from above does not resemble anything like a snake, sailors from that era as they came from the main island may have seen it as such.

A female Puerto Rican racer
(nominate race, Borikenophis portoricensis prymnus)
raises its head and flattens its throat in a threat.
Guanica State Forest, south-western Puerto Rico.
(Photograph courtesy of Mr. Mel Jose Rivera).

There is a snake mostly endemic to the islands of Mona, Culebra, Culebrita and Vieques, which has also been found in the U.S. Virgin Island and the Island of Hispaniola. The Puerto Rican Racer (alsophis portoricensis richardi). A small snake known to use venom to subdue lizard prey, but whose relatively small size and hesitation to bite are the primary reasons it is not considered more of a hazard to humans. (see Biological and proteomic analysis of venom from the Puerto Rican Racer (Alsophis portoricensis: Dipsadidae) by Caroline L. Weldon, Stephen P. Mackessy). No research I’ve done has led me to believe that the island may have been named after this snake. More than likely it is due to its appearance.

For such a small piece of paradise, (10.8 sq mi) this island does have its share of history and struggle. In 1939, Isla Culebra witnessed the U.S. Navy beginning to use the island as a bombing practice site as a preparatory step for the United States' involvement in World War II. After decades of bombing practices, the Culebra folk initiated a series of protests in 1971 that ultimately led to the U.S. Navy moving its operations to nearby Vieques Island in 1975. An action that led to a long struggle which made the neighboring island of Vieques internationally known as the site of a series of protests and civil disobedience against the U.S. Navy's use of the island as a bombing range and testing ground, which eventually led to the Navy's departure in 2003.

THE BEACHES

Culebra has some of the most beautiful beaches in the entire planet:

• Flamenco Beach

• Brava Beach

• Las Vacas Beach

• Larga Beach

• Pueblo Español

• Punta Soldado Beach

• Resaca Beach

• Tamarindo Beach

• Tortuga Beach




View Larger Map
Flamenco Beach, which I believe to be among some of the most beautiful, pristine beaches I’ve ever visited, is the only place in Culebra where you are allowed to camp. The Flamenco campsite is located on the northwest shore of the island. It is operated by the Autoridad de Conservación y Desarrollo de Culebra (government). Nestled between mangroves, pines and the ocean sounds and breezes, the campground offers an exceptional site to pitch your tent that will allow you to relax and enjoy this precious moment with your friends and family.

TRANSPORTATION

Before you set sails to this little piece of Caribbean Paradise, there are a few things that you should know in order to prepare. Getting to the island could be an adventure by itself. You can get there three ways:


• Take a flight from Fajardo

o Air Flamenco (787) 724-1818

o Isla Nena (877) 812-5144, (877) 812-5144

o Island Birds (284) 495-1988

o Culebra Air (787) 427 4808

o Vieques Air Link (787) 741-8331


• Get on the Fajardo Ferry

o Culebra (787) 742-3161

o Fajardo (787) 863-0705, (787) 863-0852, (787) 860-8618


• Or charter a boat

o Ocean Safari Kayaks (787) 379-1973

o Carousel Custom Charters (787) 396-3650

o Liberty Sail Charters (443) 831-1911

o Island Cruisers Power Boats (787) 717-2000

o Culebra Boats (787) 360-9807

o Guilin's Water Taxi (787) 742-0575

o Culebra Boat Docking (787) 742-3559

o Culebra Water Taxi (787) 360-9807

o Tanamá Glass Bottom Boat (787) 501-0011

o Culebra Water Toys (787) 742-1122



So let’s say you decide to fly. It is not that expensive, about $105 round trip. You do need to consider the fact that the flight will be in a fully FAA Certified Twin Rotary Engine Piper Navajo or Britten Norman Islander type. These are excellent aircrafts, very well maintained and flown by highly experienced pilots. But, if you have an issue with hairy landings you may want to consider the ferry. By hairy I mean that, on its final approach before landing at the Culebra Airport, the aircraft has to bank left between two hills, go below the tops on a semi dive and then quickly level, just seconds before it touches down. So, if you are not into roller coasters, this may not be the landing for you.

Then there is the Ferry. The Fajardo-Culebra Ferry is managed by the Autoridad de Transporte Maritimo de Puerto Rico on the Culebra II ferry for passengers and the Cargo Ferry if you decide to take your vehicle. (see schedule)

The Fajardo-Culebra Ferry has an arrangement where it gives residents of Culebra island preference on boarding. You need to make sure that you are at the Ferry dock well ahead of time to reduce the possibilities of hassles. If traveling by Ferry, plan well ahead and don’t be in a rush. It’s not the fastest process there is.

WHERE TO EAT

For such a small island, there are definitely a variety of choices to choose from when looking for different dining experiences.



• Barbara Rosa's (787) 397-1923

• Café del Puerto (787) 671-4467

• Club Seabourne (787) 742-3169

• Coconut's Beach Grill (787) 671-4467

• Dakity Restaurant (787) 742-0535

• Dinghy Dock (787) 742-0581

• Heather's Pizza (787) 742-3175

• Juanita Bananas (787) 742-3855

• Mamacita's Bar & Restaurant (787) 742-0322

• Shipwreck Bar & Grill (787) 742-0535

• Susie's (787) 742-0574

• The Spot (787) 742-0203

During this visit we got to dine and drink at Mamacita’s Guest House. Mainly because before we got to the Island of Culebra, we had already been recommended that we cannot say we went to Culebra if we didn’t have a Bushwalker at Mamacita’s. (See Recipe on comments below) I must agree with that recommendation and must then pass it forward. Do not go to Culebra without a stop at Mamacitas, eat their fine food and have a Bushwalker or their signature drink, the Culebrita. (Culebrita no longer available)

Another place we were recommended but didn’t get to go was Dinghy Dock. I’ve been told that Dinghy Dock’s breakfast is the best on the island. So if you are at Culebra and you feel like getting of bed or the tent early, do like I will next time, and judge Dinghy Dock’s breakfast for yourself.

WATER ACTIVITIES

The reason I specify “Water Activities” instead of generalizing just “Activities” is because everything about this island says, “GET IN THE WATER!”.



You will not find a big surfing spot in Culebra. The waters surrounding Culebra were mainly designed by the hand of God to tell you, “Sit Down! Shut Up! and Enjoy the View!” Its beaches are just gorgeous. But if you must get off your lounge chair and find something to do, I recommend Kayaking, Stand-Up Paddle Boarding, SCUBA Diving or Snorkeling.



You’ll find plenty of places to get the gear you need to do any of these upon arrival. If you are into the latter two, SCUBA and Snorkeling, let me tell you, Culebra is the place to do it. The coral reef near the island received a beating during Hurricane Hugo in 1989, but the good news is that nature is just too strong, and the coral reef in this area is full of life. 30 years of US Navy bombings on the island did more than any hurricane could have ever done, but life has replenished since. With its proximity to the Puerto Rico Trench, its depths, its walls, in short; the whole particular underwater landscape created by the scars left by this sad but true part of Culebra’s history, make for an amazing experience that will be engraved in your minds forever.

IF CAMPING, HERE IS A HELPFUL PACKING LIST

**Items with two asterisks are highly suggested items.


FOR THE TRIP

• Wallets & Purses

• Debit/Credit Cards**

• Cash

• Medicines (Prescription & Over-The-Counter)

• Are the pets being taken car off?

• Transportation Arrangements**

o Land?

o Sea?

o Air?



SHELTER FOR THE CAMPSITE

• Tent**

• Broom and Dust Pan

• Sleeping Bags or quilt**

• Foam Padding roll (for Sleeping Bags)

• Sheets (if you take an air mattress)

• Air Mattress, Air Pump & Repair Kit

• Pillows

• Extra Tent Pegs

• Hammer

• Lanterns or Flashlights**

• Rope



CLOTHING

• Bathing Suits**

• T-Shirts**

• Underwear**

• Sandals ó water-mocs**

• Hat

• Socks

• Waterproof Ponchos**

• Light Coat or Sweater**

• Laundry Bag



HYGIENE PRODUCTS

• SunBLOCK**

• Brush and Comb**

• Toothbrush**

• Toothpaste**

• Shaving Razor

• Shaving Cream

• Soap**

• Toilet Paper**

• Shampoo and Conditioner

• Afterburn Lotion**

• Q-Tips

• Nail Trimmer

• Feminine Hygiene items**

• Bath Towels

• Deodorant**



ELECTRONICS

• Digital Camera & Memory Card

• Cell Phone and Wall/Car Charger

• Batteries**

• Travel Alarm Clock

• MP3/Music Players

• Walkie-Talkies



COOKING

• 5 Gallon Water Jug**

• Ice Cooler (With Ice)**

• Propane Stove**

• Extra Propane Gas Bottles**

• Can Opener**

• Matches/Lighter**

• Charcoal**

• BBQ Grill**

• Dining Ware**

• Flat Ware**

• Utensils**

• Pam**

• Condiments**

• BBQ Utensils**

• Kitchen Ware**

• Dish Washing Soap**

• Trash Bags**



MISCELANEOUS

• Bug Repellent

• Compass

• Whistle

• Snorkeling Gear

• First Aid Kit

• Binoculars

• Duct Tape

• GPS

• Canteen/Camel Back

• Hand Wipes/Hand Sanitizer

• Radio

• Pocket Knife

• LOUNGE CHAIR**

Visit Culebra and enjoy it like it should be enjoyed… SLEEPING UNDER THE STARS!!!